Known for collections that are often provocative, dystopian or sartorially challenging, Marine Serre showed a different side of her design sensibility during the 106th edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence. Invited as Guest of Honor, she presented a refined and sleek collection, which felt much more subdued and sophisticated than what she normally shows.

Choosing the marvelous Villa di Maiano as her show venue, Serre waited for sunset, which for her felt like the perfect moment. It’s incredible to think how much she has achieved since graduating from La Cambre Mode[s] in 2016. Her graduation collection sold to Opening Ceremony straight away and the brand has kept on growing ever since. Today, her collection includes ready-to-wear for men and women, as well as bags and an exclusive shoe collaboration with French maison Repetto

We caught up with Serre a few hours before her show to talk about how she likes the idea of dressing different men, why she named her collection ‘Sempre Legati’ and in what ways Florence managed to inspire her.

What’s it like for you to present this collection during Pitti Uomo in Florence?

It’s obviously a great honor, and I’m so happy to be here. This is also my first menswear show, even though it does include some womenswear looks. And it happens to be the very first time I get to show my work outside Paris, which is like a welcome break for me. We have almost 50 looks and I think it’s amazing to be able to show men’s and women’s together.

Sounds like a lot of new beginnings to me. What feelings did you want to convey with this collection?

I was thinking about this idea of Haute Couture and how I wanted the collection to look harmonious, fluid and sensual. Obviously, you get into a certain spirit showing here and there is so much beauty in Florence, including the location I picked. I just couldn’t limit myself to proposing only ready-to-wear and was gravitating toward more intricate and complex pieces. Another thing I wanted was for the collection to feel serene, which is why I closed it with a series of white looks. We all know what’s going on in the world right now, and it really affects me as a designer. I can never separate myself from what’s happening, so hopefully those white looks can convey a message of peace.

You called the show ‘Sempre Legati’. Can you explain why?

I wanted a title that spoke of bonding and community, which is why I chose ‘Sempre Legati’. I wish to emphasize what binds us as people, as opposed to what separates us. I think that anything we create in life is an excuse to communicate with others and develop that sense of kinship. In my opinion, connection is one of the most important parts of the human experience.

What was your initial approach toward menswear?

I thought a lot about the Italian word sartoriale and how it refers to the intricacies of tailoring. I wanted the men’s looks to feel structured, while selecting exciting and innovative materials. I also got to develop a new type of leather with Italian artisans, which I used for suiting and accessories. I enjoyed working with them and being able to come up with something that seems so unique. The leather was airbrushed and when you look at it closely, it’s pretty much like observing a painting. I also draped it on a dress, which ended up feeling like a second skin. For this collection, I was really focused on cutting and shape, as well as statement draping. I wanted a strong shoulder, too, which gives the men a certain allure.

What kind of man would you like to dress and how would you define his personality?

My view of menswear is very similar to the way I envisage women. I always think about multiple personalities, as opposed to a single character. I’m also a designer who can dress and flatter different types of bodies. What I love about people is their attitude and how they carry themselves. It’s about confidence in the end. Actually, the word ‘swagger’ comes to mind almost instinctively. I guess I love the idea that clothing can give you confidence, as well as a certain attitude. It should empower the wearer, as well as emancipate his -or her- mind.